It was a bright, December day when I first saw this monument in Budapest.
When I think of the word monument, my mind immediately jumps to tall structures; obelisks and statues, everlasting flames, sturdy and strong stones that will stand the test of time.
Budapest’s memorial to the city’s murdered Hungarian Jews during World War II is perhaps the opposite of all those things; yet its simplicity is profoundly moving, and the image of that monument has stayed with me long after my visit to the city.
On that day, the low sun had melted all traces of the light snowfall that had lined the same pavements white just 24 hours before. I had walked back towards the impressive parliament building I’d visited earlier in my stay to see it’s magnificent architecture contrasted against the blue winter sky.
What is the history behind Shoes on the Danube?
The monument itself is on the riverbank promenade as you walk back towards the city. Sixty pairs of shoes have been sculpted out of iron and scattered along the the very edge of the river, to represent thousands of Jews who were forced to remove their shoes before being brutally shot in that place. Their bodies would fall into the cold water and be washed away from the city on the current.
The full horror of these events rises up within you when you see those empty shoes. All sizes and styles are there: men’s boots, women’s heeled shoes, even child sized pairs. All once occupied by real people, real souls who had their lives so cruelly taken from them at the hands of the country’s fascist, anti-semitic Arrow Cross Party.
Why Shoes?
Shoes were a valuable commodity during times of war and could be re-sold in the city. They are also a relatable thing - everyday, mundane to you or I - which makes the events they represent even more alarming. Perhaps one of the most hauntingly poignant things about the design of the monument is the haphazard way the shoes are left - as if they have only just been flung from the wearer’s feet.
I find it an intensely moving experience when I stand in places like this. That the very place where I am has seen such horror. That people walked along the same bank, full of fear and panic and knowing their lives would soon end.
I spent some time there sat on a nearby bench as the sun sank behind the horizon, reflecting on what it means to build a monument to people who are unnamed. I settled on those shoes being a symbol that this atrocity should continue to be in the public memory, that it should live in the collective culture of that community and anyone who visits, so that every new generation will know the mistakes of the past, and the people who suffered will not be forgotten.
Who is the artist behind Shoes on the Danube?
Shoes on the Danube was created by film director Can Togay and the sculptor, Gyula Pauer.
How do I visit Shoes on the Danube?
The monument is located on the Pest side of the river, just along the bank from the Parliament building. Click here for the location on Google maps.
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Sarinda
Hi, I’m Sarinda! When it comes to travelling, I am the planner and researcher, the finder-of-hidden-gems and activities, and the one with all the booking confirmations!
Not quite the blaze of glory we wanted to go out on… but a good place to reflect on the last eleven months and our incredible 27,000km journey.