Barichara: Colombia’s most enchanting town
Hidden in the breath-taking landscapes of Colombia's Santander region lies the charming town of Barichara. We were captivated by the fairytale quality to the place, so it was no surprise to discover that this enchanting town served as the inspiration for Disney's magical film, Encanto.
Arriving from Bogota wasn’t the most straightforward journey - trust us to make our very first foray into Colombian bus travel difficult for ourselves! It was a 5am start for an 8 hour bus from Bogota to San Gil, a quick taxi from the InterCity terminal to the Local terminal, and then another, hour-long bus ride into the mountains to reach Barichara. The fact it all went smoothly was a great boost and, as we were to find out as we continued exploring the Colombian bus network, the fact it all ran perfectly on time was nothing short of a miracle!
We had pre-booked most of the Colombia leg of our travels so that we could enjoy some time without having to make travel plans. Whilst this was a good decision, if we were to have our time again we definitely would have booked another day to soak up the truly special atmosphere of Barichara.
Barichara: Colombia’s most beautiful town.
Barichara was founded in the 18th century, and wandering around the cobblestone streets it’s hard to imagine that it’s changed much since. Indeed, it was declared a village of national importance in Colombia - a pueblo patrimonio - for its preservation of the construction and the atmosphere of the 18th century.
According to local legend, Barichara was founded after the image of the Virgin Mary appeared on the rocks in the hillside. Those very same rocks feature heavily in the building of the town, and were also used to build the cathedral, which lies at the geographical and religious centre of life in Barichara. It is an impressive building, the intricate facade and grand interior give a clue to the town's historical significance; it was a prosperous Spanish hub along a once prominent trade route between Bogota and the Caribbean Sea.
Official records trace the founding of the town back to 1705, during the colonial era. The architecture is dominated by white-washed buildings and red tiled rooftops, and has been lovingly preserved throughout the centuries. Over two days in the town, I’m confident we walked 95% of the cobbled streets, never getting tired of the colourful doorways and hanging flowers.
Barichara isn’t really a town for sight-seeing. It’s one to slowly walk around, stopping every now and then for a snack or a beer and some people-watching in the main plaza. We ducked into some beautiful art galleries and workshops where artisan makers were crafting traditional crafts and textiles. Wandering around, we got the sense that the pace of life here is relaxed, inviting visitors to slow down and savor the simple pleasures - we were only too happy to oblige.
Stunning Nature
Whilst the town itself is like walking through a scene straight off a postcard, the surrounding countryside is nothing short of spectacular.
Perched on a ridge with commanding views of the Suarez River canyon, Barichara has multiple breathtaking viewpoints that showcase the beauty of Colombia’s Santander region. Our gorgeous hotel, Casa Blanca Barichara, was located on the edge of town - handy for accessing the city’s premiere viewpoint, El Mirador.
Level with the clouds, we watched as condors soared across the sky and took in the view of the lush green valley below us. We avoided the rocky outcrop that seemed to be a popular Instagram-photo spot - signs all around warned of loose rocks near the edge and, quite frankly, no amount of likes is worth the risk!
Hiking from Barichara to Guane
We love a bit of hiking, so we couldn’t miss the trail from Barichara to the nearby village of Guane, which we read is an absolute must-do in the area. The trail, known as Camino Real, winds its way through stunning landscapes, showcasing the region's natural beauty.
The hike was a pretty flat 5km along a stone-paved trail, taking around two hours in the heat of the morning. As we set off, we bumped into an older Colombian couple - they reminded me so much of Graeme and I! The man was friendly and talkative, asking us about our life and travels, and telling us about his daughter who lives in Newcastle. The woman, on the other hand, gave us a friendly hello and then started down the trail, impatiently looking back and waiting to get going… I could almost feel her eye roll. I guess it’s a pattern for introverted women to marry sociable men who will talk to everyone! The man explained they were visiting their native country for a few weeks from their new home in Costa Rica, and kindly invited us to track them down for a cup of tea when we get there next year. Luckily he only gave us a vague region of the country, so barring an improbable coincidence I think she will be saved from hosting us!
Setting off ahead of our new friends along the path, we were treated to panoramic views of rolling hills, deep canyons, and emerald-green valleys. It was such a lovely walk, with a well-marked trail that offered plenty of opportunities to connect with nature. Along the way, we chatted, rested at scenic viewpoints, snapped photos of picturesque vistas, and enjoyed the peaceful serenity of the surroundings. It was an idyllic morning.
At the end of the trail is Guane, a mini-Barichara in terms of architecture and atmosphere. Guane is known for its well-preserved colonial architecture and narrow streets, as well as a small Paleontological Museum showcasing the area’s indigenous history. After an hour of exploring this tiny village, we hopped on the local bus back to Barichara - the trail there had been downhill, and we didn’t fancy walking back up the valley!
Inspiring Disney's Encanto
As I mentioned at the top of this post, Barichara's allure extends beyond its historical and natural wonders. It has captured the attention of filmmakers, serving as the inspiration for Disney's animated film, Encanto. The town's charm and vibrant atmosphere are reflected in the movie, bringing to life the enchanting spirit of Barichara on the silver screen.
Alejandra Espinosa, a Barichara local, worked as Disney’s cultural consultant on the film. A history enthusiast, she still lives in the town today, operating a small bookshop and cafe.
We are big fans of Encanto and we actually watched it with my niece just before we left for Colombia. Exploring the cobblestone streets, it was easy to notice architectural features and landmarks that resemble scenes from the film. Whether it's the whimsical town square, the bustling markets, or the warm interactions among the residents, the essence of the town comes alive in the animated narrative.
We found this particularly true of our hotel. A beautiful white-washed building, the rooms were all positioned around a central courtyard, with paths and staircases leading off in different directions. Our very own casita! Complete with hammocks, a friendly cat and two rabbits, it was a hard place to pack up and leave!
We would have loved another day of lazily exploring the vibrant colours, colonial facades, and intricate details of Barichara's buildings, but we are so grateful for the time we did have there - it was just what we needed after the hustle and bustle of Bogota. We left feeling full of energy and a little closer to understanding the magic and wonder of this beautiful country.
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