High Altitude Adventures in Quito
Cotopaxi Volcano is an incredible day-trip from Quito
Compared to the epic bus journeys we had undertaken in Colombia, the 2 hour hop from Otavalo to Ecuador’s capital, Quito, passed in the blink of an eye - and also saw us travel through the line of the equator!
With 4 nights in the capital, we knew we could take things at a slow pace. We did some food shopping so we could cook a few meals in the hostel, then had a slow walk around the Old Town, where we were based. It’s quite a theme in our travels so far. We’ve found bigger cities tend to have an old town, where most of the sightseeing by day is to be found but it can feel a little empty in the evening, and a backpacker area where there are a lot of bars, restaurants and hostels - but not much character. Where it safe to do so, we prefer staying in the Old Town. It’s nice to wake up and be in the centre of the action, and it’s easier to taxi to specific places in the evening.
Quito’s Old Town
Our first day was devoted to discovering the historical centre of the city. We booked a walking tour and were surprised when we were the only ones on it - and the fact that it would still go ahead with just the two of us.
Our guide, Luis, met us at the Basilica. We are glad we started there, as it was a steep uphill climb and our bodies were still adjusting to being 2850 metres above sea level! Luckily, the rest of the morning took us downhill.
We could have guessed the first fact he told us about the Basilica - that the design was inspired by Notre Dame in Paris. The blend of Gothic and Baroque styles, along with the Rose windows, made that much obvious. But we loved the little Ecuadorian adaptations he pointed out - instead of gargoyles there were little Galapagos tortoises and blue-footed boobies hanging from the facade.
We paid $1 each to climb the Basilica tower. It started in a pretty standard way up a spiral stone staircase, but when we got to the famous “tower of the Condors” it got a little hairy. We were basically climbing a rickety ladder! I was pretty nervous but watching the group of toddlers racing up ahead of me, I couldn’t really back out without losing face. Bloody kids. So we made our way up the tower - so called because it is 70m high, the height that Condors fly, apparently.
The view of Quito from the top was worth the shakey climb. We could see the mountains all around, and the city spread across the valley. Directly ahead of us, between the two towers of the Basilica, was the statue of the Virgin of Quito, perched on top of the El Pancillo hill.
Back on firm ground (the way down was scarier than the way up!) we continued to be guided round the city with Luis. This was probably the best ‘free’ walking tour we have done. Not only because it was a private tour just for us, but the amount of experiences that were included.
Next up, we visited a small shop that sold traditional artefacts and sweets. We got to try some traditional sweets and we got the answer to a question we had been pondering since arriving in Otavalo. At the market, we had seen lots of colourful balaclava masks for sale. It turns out they are ceremonial masks, worn by indigenous people on special occasions and holidays. They are traditionally used around harvest time, where indigenous communities would don the masks and dance for hours on end, asking the gods for favourable weather and good crops. Luis showed us how the dance went and we had a go for a few minutes - it was exhausting! He said the actual ceremonies would last all day with people dancing continuously round and round.
We visited several examples of old colonial houses, one owned by wealthy Spanish families but now repurposed for the people of Quito. These houses - now hotels, restaurants and bars - were set out around a central courtyard, with many rooms around the edges. In one old house, that is now a fancy hotel, we got a chocolate tasting experience. Luis had us blind taste chocolates of differing strength and flavours to determine our favourite. We even got some truffles at the end!
After sitting down to a glass of canelazo - a kind of Ecuadorian mulled wine - we walked through the main square and to our final stop - the Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesus, also known as The Gold Church. Why? The interior of this Jesuit Church is covered in gold leaf, floor to domed ceiling. The walls, ceilings, altars, intricate woodwork, sculptures and religious at - all covered in gold. Unfortunately you can’t take pictures inside, but we snuck a photo in the doorway, as well as a cheeky glimpse through the windows as we climbed to the church's domes. We finished our tour there on the rooftop, bathed in the equatorial sunshine.
Volcanic Ventures
The next day we woke up early for an experience we were really excited for: we would be spending the day in Cotopaxi National Park, climbing the famous volcano.
Cotopaxi is one of the world’s highest active volcanos, situated on the so-called ‘Avenida de los Volcanoes’ - a stretch of the Andes where numerous towering volcanoes lie in close proximity to each other. This corridor of Volcanoes stretches south from Quito and includes Cotopaxi as well as Chimborazo and Tungurahua, amongst others. Not only is the area a geographical marvel, it is filled with stunning landscapes - driving south out of the capital, the snow-capped peaks of these volcanoes were visible through the clouds, getting us excited for the day ahead.
Cotopaxi is perhaps the most famous of the volcanoes, not only because of the outdoor clothing brand that bears the same name, but because it is looks like the kind of mountain you would draw as a kid. A perfect cone shape, with a layer of white snow at the top.
The last significant eruption was in 1904, although there have been minor eruptions since… and currently! The path to the summit of Cotopaxi was closed when we visited, and had been closed for several months as the volcano was technically erupting as we climbed. Classified as ‘moderate eruptive activity,’ we could see the ash plumes rising from the crater. All this meant it was safe for us to climb as high as the snow line at around 4860m above sea level, but melting ice above that meant the summit - at 5879m - was out of reach.
We started the day with a visit to the National Park’s interpretation centre, where the regions culture and history, as well as the geological significance of the area, was explained. We then stopped for some coca tea - the leaves of the infamous plant are well-known for curbing the effects of altitude sickness.
We then set off for the hour-long hike up to the Jose Rivas refuge, at 4860m above sea level. This would be our highest altitude to date! The climb itself was pretty tough, almost vertical in gradient through volcanic ash and sand, so with every step you felt like you were going backwards. It was killer on the calves! To make it harder, we happened to be climbing on the windiest day! A freezing cold head-wind whipped sand and small rocks against our legs, into our mouths and eyes, adding to the challenge… not to mention the actual lack of oxygen in the air.
As is often the case when hiking is tough, it is worth it when you get to the top. Though it was a cloudy day, the high wind meant that the clouds cleared to blue skies quickly to reveal the majestic snow-capped peak of Cotopaxi, complete with rising ash. Inside the refuge, we warmed our hands with another cup of coca tea - bad day to forget gloves - and got to know our fellow hikers.
Travelling with us that day were Kate and Chris - a couple from Australia. This day trip happened to coincide with the third Ashes test at Old Trafford, so of course we couldn’t help but engage in some banter with them. Luckily they were not only massive cricket fans, but gave as good as they got! Later, when we were back in Quito, warm and showered, we met up with them again for some dinner and drinks, and the next day they even let us do our laundry for free in their AirBnb (we paid them with beers, of course!).
We spent our final two days relaxing in the city - I’ve grown to really like saving a few days to spend in this way, as it kind of feels like we live in the place. We have a lie in, go for a morning stroll and get lunch, do some work on this blog in the afternoon (it’s much harder to find the time to write blogs than I thought!), and then either cook or go out for dinner in the evening. It’s a more relaxed way to see a city, and makes us feel like part of the everyday workings of a place.
We were also mindful of taking it easy for a couple of days as our next stop was something we had never done before - we would be embarking on our first multi-day hike on the Quilotoa Loop.
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