7 Days in Colourful Cartagena

*Street art in Getsemani, a colourful neighbourhood in Cartagena*

The laid-back, Caribbean vibes of Cartagena were just what we needed after 2 full-on weeks of travelling. We’d gone from the metropolis of Bogota to the mountain retreat of Barichara, and cross-country to the jungle and beaches of Tayrona National Park. We needed a break. Enter Cartagena: Colombia's coastal gem.

Compared to the bus journeys we had completed to date, getting to Cartagena from Tayrona was a relatively straightforward process: we flagged down a collectivo back to Santa Marta from the entrance of the National Park (where we realised we had been sold tourist prices for the bus on the way!), then got on a 6 hour bus which made a short stop in Barranquilla en route.

We had originally planned to stay in Cartagena 5 days and then head to the town of Mompox. However, by the time we had arrived at our hostel we were absolutely shattered. We began to comprehend just how much sitting on a bus can take it out of you. With up to a year on the road ahead of us we decided to slow down the pace and extended our stay in Cartagena to a week for some much needed chill time.

The decision to stay in Cartagena for longer is one we don’t regret, even though we never made it to Mompox. We thoroughly embraced the Caribbean lifestyle during our time in the city. With the heat and humidity at times overwhelming, we settled into a pattern of early mornings, afternoon siestas and evening entertainment. Definitely a routine we could become accustomed to!

An extended stay in one place also meant we got into proper budget travel mode for the first time. We were able to do laundry, some grocery shopping, and spend a few nights in our hostel cooking dinner and drinking shop-bought beers. We are the kind of people who love our weekly food shop at Aldi, so exploring a Colombian supermarket was practically an excursion for us!

From exploring fortresses to strolling through cobblestoned streets, our week in the city felt like a mini-holiday within a holiday. Here are some of our highlights of the best things to do in Cartagena…

Discover Cartagena’s Colonial History

Exploring Cartagena’s notable sites was a must for two history enthusiasts like us. It started with a visit to the imposing Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, the largest fort built by the Spanish in any of their colonies.

The city’s location on the Caribbean Sea made it strategically very important. The Spanish used it as a hub to export the goods they raided from the land and native people back to Europe - things like gold, tobacco and sugar - whilst also importing slaves from Africa to help build the city, including the fortress.

The entrance fee is worth it for the panoramic views of the city. We would have liked a bit more in the way of exhibition or interpretation at the fortress itself, but a little self-research helped us appreciate the significance of the site. We also paid extra to enter the winding tunnels beneath the complex. I’ll be honest, it got a little claustrophobic down there! But it was clear to see how the Spanish would defend the site from invasions using the underground maze - the tunnels were designed to echo sound so enemy footsteps could be heard clearly, and there were also secret evacuation routes and hidden enclaves where soldiers could hide, unseen, to take invaders by surprise. Despite many attempts, the fortress was never taken.

The dark history continues in the Palacio de la Inquisición, a beautiful building that houses a chilling museum, displaying instruments of torture used during the Spanish Inquisition. The Inquisition in Colombia mainly targeted women accused of witchcraft, with over 900 people investigated in the city - official records say only 5 were sentenced to death for their crimes.

Get Lost in the Charming Old Town

The heart of Cartagena lies in its picturesque Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site also known as Ciudad Amurallada - the walled city. Founded by Spanish Conquistadors, the city was a crucial hub for trade. It is full of character, with well-preserved colonial architecture and narrow cobblestoned streets.

We spent a couple of mornings losing ourselves in the labyrinth of streets lined with brightly coloured buildings and adorned with flowers.

Surrounding this area are the iconic city walls, offering incredible views of the Caribbean Sea - especially at sunset, where locals and tourists gather with a couple of beers to watch the show.

Explore Street Galleries in Getsemaní

Getsemaní is a colourful neighbourhood located outside of the main city walls in Cartagena, and it is another picturesque place to walk around. The district was first inhabited by indigenous communities and Afro-Colombians, in contrast to the richer populations within the walled city itself. Over time, it became a bustling neighbourhood and a hub of social action; many leaders in the fight for independence emerged from the area.

Today the neighbourhood is a symbol of resilience, the colourful streets and colonial architecture contrasting with the contemporary flair of local art and graffiti. We did a free walking tour of graffiti in the area to better understand the stories of the city, its history and its people that are told through the murals. Rich in culture, this bohemian district was one of our favourite places to hang out in the city, particularly Plaza de Trinidad. Right at the heart of Getsemaní, Plaza de Trinidad is home to a beautiful yellow church and is always buzzing with people, street food carts cooking up all sorts of delicious snacks and local kids going about daily life.

Relax on the Beach

The Caribbean coast around Cartagena is blessed with incredible beaches that offer an idyllic escape from the city. The most popular is Playa Blanca, a pristine stretch of white sand located about an hour outside of the city. We got a bus here but then hopped on a boat to Playa Tranquilla, where we were hoping for a quieter vibe due to the extra logistics involved.

We didn’t quite get that, as the stretch of sand was lined with beach clubs and sellers offering everything from foot massages to cocaine! We declined on both fronts. Once we were settled on a four-poster sun lounger we were able to tune out the surroundings and enjoy a day of relaxation, taking it in turns to dip in the warm water and enjoy a few beach beers.

Eat all of the Seafood

There’s nothing like a seafood dinner when you are by the coast. We wanted to taste as many local flavours as possible when not cooking for ourselves, so we went to a mix of street-food sellers, canteens and restaurants to sample the full range during our week in the city.

There were two stand-outs. Firstly, Espíritu Santo, an unassuming lunchtime canteen that was mostly filled with locals. We both had fried fish with rice, plantain and salad - absolutely huge portions! Later in the week we had our first try of ceviche and loved it! It was a meal to remember all-round at Sierpe Cocina Caribe, where they served a fusion of Caribbean and international flavors, one of many trendy restaurants in the Getsemaní neighborhood.

Enjoy the Nightlife!

No visit to Cartagena is complete without experiencing its vibrant nightlife. Of course, the most popular evening past-time is to go to a salsa club. We had an impromptu salsa lesson on the city walls at sunset from a tour guide - we weren’t as bad as you’d imagine!

We also returned to the Getsemaní district in the evenings to make the most of the party atmosphere. At night, tables, chairs and outdoor bars pack the narrow streets and there are 2-4-1 cocktails as far as the eye can see. We also went back to our ‘usual’ spot in Plaza de Trinidad, which came alive with street entertainment and music as the sun set - the perfect spot to enjoy a few beers.

Bonus: Say Hi to the Resident Sloths and Monkeys!

Weird fact: Parque del Centenario, located between the walled city and Getsemaní, is home to at least three sloths! We saw two adults and a baby in the trees as we walked through the park on various days. Why are they there? Honestly, no idea. Maybe the unofficial ‘guide’ that stands in the trees pointing them out explained, but I was too distracted by the actual sloths to listen, translate and understand.

As well as sloths, there are many Tamarin Monkeys darting through the trees - much easier to spot without assistance. Any time we walked through the park we took a moment to look up… There is something very joyful about seeing sloths!

Other popular day trips from the city

The reality of being on a budget means we had to pick and choose which experiences we will enjoy the most, and miss out on others. There are a couple of popular day trips we skipped that we heard mentioned by other travellers tour guides. Firstly, the Rosario Islands. We chose a relaxing day at Playa Tranquilla over this boat tour of a nearby archipelago. Whilst it did sound like a great chance to explore further afield, it was a packed itinerary for a day trip which wasn’t the vibe we were after. And the other excursion was to Totumo Volcano - a misleading name for what is actually a mound of warm, mineral-rich mud, not an actual volcano. This one wasn’t really for us - the idea of bathing in mud isn’t our idea of relaxing, no matter how good it is for the skin!

Slowing down to experience Cartagena made us feel less like we are on holiday and more like we are travelling, which is a good thing! With so much ahead of us we don’t want to burn out within the first month. We emerged refreshed, if a little sweaty, and ready to head south.

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