A Grand Tour of Germany's Romantic Road by Train
Looking across the Neckar towards the Alte Brucke and Old Town, Heidelberg.
Germany’s Romantic Road – or, Romantische Straß – is a well-known tourist route taking in small villages and historic cities. It’s easy to see why it is so popular. From fairytale castles in lush green valleys to villages of timber-framed houses and glistening alpine lakes, travelling through these towns and villages is like stepping into a postcard.
To drive from its northern point in Wurzburg to its end at the alps covers a distance of 350km and is admittedly probably the best way of seeing the smallest villages, cobbled streets and breathing in that fresh alpine air.
Can you travel the Romantic Road by Train?
The comprehensive public transport system in Germany makes it relatively easy for non-drivers like me to experience the highlights of the Romantic Road at a slow pace (unlike some of the whistle-stop tours that companies offer). It also gives you flexibility to add other stops onto your route - which we did!
Like most UK teenagers I learnt to drive at 17 but quickly learnt that I hated driving even more than I hated being a passenger (I suffered with car-sickness as a child… and occasionally as an adult, too), so renting a car on holiday is always a last resort. Besides, getting acquainted with the public transport of a country is one of the best ways to experience what life is really like there. Yes I have horror stories of being vomited on by a small child somewhere near Montpellier, and waking up to an empty purse on an overnight train to Prague… but these memories are surpassed by great memories made on the tracks.
Whilst I can’t vouch for fellow passengers on any given day, I do know that as you catch connections and snake your way down the route, the idyllic scenery passing by the window makes for a wonderful ride. For a self-titled Romantic trip, surely the romance of the railways is the most fitting form of transport?
Romerplatz, Frankfurt.
Our Grand Tour of Germany’s Romantic Road by Train
Step 1: Flight UK to Frankfurt
Frankfurt am Main is the nearest major airport to the traditional start of the route in Wurzburg. Of course it is possible to jump directly on a bus from the airport to the head of the route, but after a morning flight we were happy to spend a day exploring the city. Unfortunately the weather put a stop to my first planned activity, which was climbing the Main Tower. I always like to get to a rooftop or high point in cities and the observation deck here would have been great to see views of the whole of Frankfurt… but it does close during electrical storms.
We wondered past the Euro bank, which is apparently one of the most instagrammed places in the city now so I imagine is well-kept but, back then before the ‘gram existed, it was covered in graffiti. Walking along the riverside we came to the Cathedral – where I did get a chance to walk up the tower steps for a view over the river. From there, it is a short walk to Romerplatz, the main square. This is a taste of what is to come on the Romantic Road; that quintessential German altstadt that makes you feel like you’ve gone back in time. Restaurants line the lower ground but look up for beautifully painted buildings including the three stepped gable facades of the Romer – the town hall. We spent the evening huddled in a cosy pub away from the rain. This whistle-stop tour on a grey day did not do the city justice and there are plenty of museums and sights I would have liked to have seen, but I would go back for the chance to enjoy that beautiful square on a sunny day in a heartbeat.
Step 2: Frankfurt to Heidelberg
(1 hour train journey)
Ok so… I’m still not on the Romantic Road route. We had heard a lot about Heidelberg from someone who spent a year living there as a student and we wanted our trip to the area to include a visit. Anyone attracted to the region for the vibe of the Romantic Road will love Heidelberg – in fact, I think it’s a better stop than some of the other places on route and offered a bit more variety to the trip.
The winding cobbled lanes of the Baroque old town throw up surprises round every corner; beautiful churches and open squares appear as if from nowhere. And towering above the colourful architecture of the town is the hauntingly beautiful ruin of the castle. It is a steep uneven walk up to it, but more than worth the effort for the views over the town to the Neckar river. We lingered to watch the sun begin to set and made our way down to one of the many open-air tables for dinner. Late that evening, we walked along the riverside and saw the castle illuminated – the only light in the darkness of the forested hills… a truly romantic view for a Romantic Road trip.
The Old Bridge over the River Neckar in Heidelberg
The next day we crossed the Old Bridge and walked up a steep path on the opposite side of the river known as the Philosophenweg. The path wound steadily up the hillside and has many monuments along the way, including a large garden which is the perfect place to stop to catch your breath. From here, you can look back across the river at the castle nestled into the trees directly opposite. Walking back into the city, we spent the rest of a rainy day exploring the university museum and the stunning library.
Step 3: Heidelberg to Wurzburg
(2.5 hour train journey (1 change)
Here is what you came for! From Heidelberg it is a relatively straightforward journey to Wurzburg: 2 trains with an easy connection. We were finally on the famous Romantic Road. We didn’t stop overnight in Wurzburg, instead we arrived early in the morning from Heidelberg and left our bags in the station lockers whilst walking around the town. This might seem an odd choice as Wurzburg is one of the larger places on the route and there’s plenty to do there, but we knew we wanted to spend our time in the smaller, quieter places and we are still happy with the decision in hindsight.
The gardens around the Residence in Wurzburg.
Our first stop was the Residence – a huge palace surrounded by formal gardens. The inside of the palace is said to be spectacular, but being cash-strapped, we instead spent our time walking around the equally impressive landscaped gardens and enjoyed a picnic lunch amongst the colourful flowers.
We walked through the town towards the river, passing the impressive Marienkappelle - its gothic tower glowing red against the bright blue sky. Around the corner, I had to stop at the Grafeneckart - one of the memorials I was most curious about. During WWII, Wurzburg was hit with almost a thousand tonnes of explosives in 20 minutes, destroying most of the city and killing thousands. Inside the Grafeneckart there is a small exhibition explaining the events of that tragic night including a model showing the extent of the damage to the ruined city. I’m glad I stopped in to see this model before walking up to the fortress as, looking out over the city, it is hard not to be awed by the recovery and rebuilding of Wurzburg, rising out of the ashes of total devastation.
Over the Old Bridge of Wurzburg and a gentle uphill walk through a green landscape takes you to the Fortress Marienberg - worth the climb for the panoramic city views from the top.
Step 4: Wurzburg to Rothenburg ob der Tauber
(1hour train journey (1 change))
Rothenburg ob der Tauber is where we started to feel the romance. The cobbled street, stone walls and colourful timber framed buildings made me feel like I’d gone back in time. Ornate iron signs swing above shopfronts, windows are piled high with handmade ornaments and pastries. Turreted city gates form tunnels out of the protection of the towering walls. This is archetypal, picture postcard Germany.
I could’ve stayed here and ambled around the web of streets for weeks, but I am glad I chose to spend a few days here. There are a lot of day trips that pass through the area, and at its busiest time the shopping centre can lose some of its charm when crowded with people. I don’t think this is a bad thing - Rothenburg is the jewel in the crown of the Romantic Road. I will admit I am the kind of person who shies away from places that are overcrowded - but there’s always a reason why popular places become so.
Saying that, it was when wondering around the emptied streets in the golden evening light that I felt most under the fairytale spell of this charming medieval town. In terms of things to do, my main advice is to take it slow. I think I walked down every street inside the medieval walls several times over but never got bored.
We climbed the town hall tower and looked out over the green carpet of trees that surrounded the town. We woke up early and walked the route along the top of the city walls as the rising sun crept over the colourful buildings below. We strolled through the shopping streets, seriously contemplating ditching half the contents of the tiny hand-luggage-approved backpack and filling it with beer steins, all kinds of carved wooden trinkets and paintings. We recoiled at the exhibits of the torture museum and stood in awe in front of the carved altar at St Jakob’s church.
And of course, I ate and drank like a queen, waking up early just to fit more meals into the day. Memories that still stand out 10 years later include enjoying a white wine spritz in the blue light of dusk on the terrace of Hotel Reichskuchenmeister, which overlooks the dramatic gothic arches of St Jakob’s Church; and a three course meal at the restaurant attached to Villa Mittermeier - the holders of a Michelin Bib Gourmand being the only thing that tempted us outside of the medieval walls during our stay.
Step 5: Rothenburg ob de Tauber to Fussen via Augsburg
(2.5 hour train journey to Augsburg (2 changes) and another 2 hours from Augsburg to Fussen)
Like Wurzburg, Augsburg is another one of the larger stops on the route and another one that we only spent the day in, arriving early and leaving in the evening. Since that trip I have made friends from the city who in no uncertain terms told me off for skipping their hometown, so I do resolve to go back and enjoy more of it. I meant no disrespect; it is one of the oldest city’s in Germany with a wealthy past that shaped the history of the country. My only excuse is that I had visited Fussen the previous year and, less than twelve months later, the draw to go back there had me impatiently rushing past Augsburg after only a quick walk and lunch stop.
The previous year all I had known about Fussen was that it was the gateway to Neuschwanstein; the famous fairytale castle perched in a cliff that had inspired Walt Disney himself. And whilst seeing the castle is everything it is billed to be, there is so much more to Fussen than just that castle. My excitement to be back grew as the fields outside the train windows started to rise into the dramatic mountainous landscape of the German alps.
Neuschwanstein perches dramatically amongst lush forests, making a perfect picture whatever the weather.
For the sake of this post I’ll combine both my visits to the town to explain why it holds a special place in my travel memories. It’s hard not to start with the castles; Schloss Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau. There is the option of getting the bus to the castles but I much preferred my second visit where I rented a bike from the centre of Fussen and cycled there. It was a short ride, only around 25 minutes, on quiet roads out of the town then a walking/cycling path that ran away from the main road towards the castles. The end of the path emerged close to the ticket centre where the public bus stop back to Fussen is located, and there also was a row of empty bike racks waiting for us to park up. We did this first thing in the morning so there was no queue at the ticket office, and we got on the first tour of the day to see the interior of the castle with only a handful of other people.
It is a fairly steep and long walk along a tree-lined path up to the castle from here. Perhaps it is the anticipation, but that first glimpse of Neuschwanstein poking out of the dense forest really is breath-taking. The final approach has a viewing platform for the perfect picture in front of the white turrets towering above the tree line.
The interior tour was well worth doing if, like me, you are interested in grand decor - the rooms range from stunningly opulent to plain bizarre. I’m glad I saw it, but it was expensive and by no means the highlight of the day. On my second visit we skipped the tour and spent more time around the grounds, which I enjoyed just as much.
After the tour we followed the path around the back of the castle through the woodland to the Marienbrucke. This incredible bridge is not for the faint-hearted as it straddles the Pollat Gorge. If you can brave it, you are rewarded with unobstructed, travel guide views of the famous castle... Just don’t look down! It gets very busy so if, like me, you are cautious when it comes to heights, its worth waiting around a while. Tour groups come and go quite quickly, and a hundred people jostling on the bridge can dissipate within 10 minutes for a more comfortable experience.
Most make their way back to the shuttle bus from here, however there is a wonderful walk down the gorge to the waterfall. A trail is well marked from the Marienbrucke. An early clearing gives amazing and almost secluded views of the castle, another lets you look up at the bridge from below. Some parts of the trail are a challenge, along metal walkways anchored to the side of the gorge with the waterfall thundering down behind you. You really can’t be more immersed in the natural beauty of the area.
The trail leads back into the centre of Schwangau, and from there we looked around the Museum of Bavarian Kings. Again, this is probably best left for history geeks like me as there is a lot of information to take in, but I had a great time wondering around the exhibits and learning about the history of the area, including more of a background on King Ludwig II who built the famous castles. At the end, we settled on a table on the terrace of the museum restaurant and enjoyed a delicious (but quite expensive) wild boar ravioli. I expect we were paying a premium for the beautiful views over Alpsee, but it was worth it. In the afternoon, we walked around the grounds of Hohenschwangau, the other castle, before picking up our bikes and cycling back to town.
Whilst the castles are a major draw, there are so many other things to do around Fussen. Another day we rented bikes and followed a path in the other direction towards Forggensee, where we spent the day exploring trails, taking a boat ride and lazily sunbathing on the lake side. There are so many hiking paths in the area - you can even hike into Austria! You will be spoilt with Alpine vistas and lush green forests.
Some of the best moments are the simplest; one sunny day we walked along the river Lech to the falls, found a spot on the pebbled banks and dipped our feet in the ice cold and impossibly blue water, whilst enjoying a beer and reading a book.
Step 6: Fussen to Munich
(2 hour train journey)
It’s 2 hours from Fussen station to Munich, much of it along the same scenic route as the train in. I won’t write too much about Munich as I know I will have a future post dedicated to the city which I have visited four times and am wholly in love with. But other than being a convenient major city to fly home from, it’s also a brilliant way to end a summer trip sat in the famous bustling beer gardens. The friendly atmosphere is the perfect last bit of romance to soak up on this famous travel route.
Where does the Romantic Road Start and Finish?
The Romantic Road officially starts in Wurzburg and ends in Fussen. Whilst I didn’t follow the traditional Romantic Road trip, I had a great time in Germany and wouldn’t change the route I chose.
How long does it take to do a Grand Tour of the Romantic Road?
The driving route is just over 200 miles (350km). It would take at least 3 days if you are doing it quickly, but I’d advise at least a week so you can enjoy some of the stops along the way. By train and public transport, two weeks allows a bit longer travelling between locations.
How do you travel The Romantic Road by Train?
It was easy to do the journey by train, and if you’re used to train travel in other parts of the world my guess is that you’ll get along fine in Germany: it’s one of the best transport networks I’ve ever travelled on.
Look out for special train deals for groups, especially if you’re travelling within the same region - you’ll get a ticket that covers all regional transport and the discount gets better the bigger your group is. This page on the Deutsche Bahn website lists all the saver fares you can take advantage of.
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