The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
Our group ready to set off on day one of the Inca Trail
Long before Graeme and I knew each other, we were two nerdy kids pouring over Horrible Histories books, dreaming of one day walking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.
Our 3 night, 4 day trek was the very first thing we booked when we decided we would have a career break to travel. Before we had a flight out of the U.K., we knew the dates we would be walking this most famous of routes to one of the new seven wanders of the world. As we have made our way through Colombia and Ecuador, it has always been with this in mind. A target. A goal. The thing we have been travelling towards during the first leg of our trip.
To say it’s been on our bucket lists for decades, and that to get the chance to see the ancient city of the Incas was a dream come true… it’s an understatement.
A bum starting note
Our Inca Trail experience started by defying the script I had so carefully planned. Between finally getting our bags packed and into bed at 11.30pm and our morning pick up at 4.30am, I was out of bed to use the bathroom four times… not what you want before 3 nights at basic campsites!
True, this was a bit of a “bum” note to start on, but nothing short of total collapse was going to stop me doing this trip. After medicating and nibbling at our breakfast, I told our guide, Elisban, that I had been unwell but was ready for the challenge. He was amazing. He kept an eye on me all day, told me he had medication as well as natural remedies if I felt any worse, and gave me regular updates as to how far the next toilet was! Both Elisban and our second guide, Henry, would be our cheerleaders over the next four days. By the time we got to lunch, 5 hours and a bottle of Gatorade into our trip, I was feeling much more myself.
The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
The Inca Trail is one of the world's most renowned trekking experiences. The 45km route is an awe-inspiring journey through the Peruvian Andes, leading to the ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu, nestled high in the mountains.
Day 1: km82 - Ayapata // 14km
Day 1 began in the town of Ollantaytambo, where we had our passports checked by the park authorities. To preserve its natural and cultural significance, the Peruvian government strictly regulates access to the Inca Trail, limiting the number of visitors per day, all of whom require personalised permits. This helps protect the fragile ecosystem and ensures a sustainable experience for future generations.
Passing through the checkpoint, we had our picture taken with the famous sign marking the start of the walk before setting off.
There were 14 of us in our group, and we would grow to be great friends by the end of our four days. It sounds very cheesy, especially coming from me as I am not quick to make new friends usually(!), but the people in our group is what made our Inca Trail experience so memorable. Everyone was warm and friendly and, like us, had been longing for this experience for years. It was a special bond we shared on the trail and at our camp sites, each step savoured as a dream coming true.
Whilst the trail on that first day wasn’t demanding on paper, the heat made it a challenge! The sun beat down on us as we followed the relatively flat trail, passing the first of many Incan sites we would see along the way: Patallacta, an inca checkpoint on the way to Machu Picchu.
Just as the sun was becoming too much, we arrived at our lunch spot for the day. This first meal was an eye opener as to what was to come. The food was nothing short of AMAZING.
We had chosen our tour company, Alpaca Expeditions, for two reasons. Firstly, they are a local, indigenous-owned company. There are many well-known international operators like G Adventures and the like running the same trek, but as two people who have spent their careers championing local at home, it was a given that we chose to travel this way as well. The second reason is because they are known for having the best chefs on the trail, and, my god, did that prove to be true.
From that very first lunch, mealtimes were a highlight for the group. We would chat and get to know each other more, laugh about the day’s events, get excited for everything yet to come, all whilst devouring mouthwatering three course meals. Soups, salads, rice dishes, potatoes, stir fries, curries - everything.
Graeme and I love to cook and host dinner parties, but the thought of cooking for 14 people (plus 24 porters) is terrifying. To do it on the side of a mountain, with a camping stove and only a chopping board on your lap as a working surface… it’s mind blowing talent! Our chef even made a full birthday cake for one of the women in our group, who was celebrating her birthday - incredible!
After that first lunch it was another 2 hour walk to our campsite, passing through 2 small communities where I stocked up on Gatorade!
We arrived at Ayapata, our home for the night, at about 5pm, to find our tents already set up and our belongings tucked neatly inside.
This next paragraph is dedicated to the porters who work on the trail. Each day they would carry everything needed for our camp (food, cooking equipment, tents, tables, stools, a portaloo - everything!) along with 7kg of belongings for each person in our group, and they would almost sprint the trail ahead of us to get it all set up in time for our arrival. Day after day, we would arrive at camp tired from carrying only our day packs and they would already be there, our tents ready to collapse into and busy preparing our food. They would even clap US into camp as we arrived, as if we were the ones that had gone above and beyond! They really are superhuman, and our gratitude is unending - the experience would not have been possible without them.
Day 2: Ayapata - Dead Woman’s Pass - Runcuraccay Pass - Chaquiccocha // 16km
After being woken at 4.30am with a hot cup of coca tea we got ready for the longest day on the trail, setting off after breakfast.
Those first four hours were tough. We hiked through cloud forest and up a never ending staircase in the pouring rain to the highest pass of the trek, Dead Woman's Pass (4215 meters).
We were told the views here would be amazing, but all we got was driving rain and freezing wind! So we were quick to begin our descent - although making our way down slippery stone steps was anything but quick. Down in the valley we had our lunch stop, clutching to cups of tea and desperately trying to dry off.
After lunch we had deja vu as we began begin ascending again to the second pass of the day. Along the way saw a small Inca site, Runcu Raccay, with an impressive backdrop of waterfalls cascading down the opposite side of the valley.
After the second pass, we made our way downhill to reach the magnificent Inca site, Sayacmarca (the inaccessible village). The name is quite right - the stairs we climbed to get up there were no joke! We clung to the rocks and avoided looking down as we made our way up to the site, from where we could see our camp for the night - it certainly gave everyone that final boost of motivation we needed to get there.
After a 10 hour day, we all collapsed into our tents for a rest before another delicious dinner. As we made our way to bed, we took a moment to appreciate the star-filled sky.
Day 3: Chaquiccocha - Wiñaywayna // 10km
I think I speak for most of the group when I say day 3 was the best. Beautiful sunshine overhead, relatively flat terrain, 5 hours hiking and breathtaking Inca sites. What more could we want from the Inca trail?
Our trail entered the jungle as we walked, all the while with the beauty of the Salkantay snowcapped peak and a fantastic panoramic view of the Vilcabamba mountain range accompanying us.
We made our way up to the last peak at Phuyupatamarka, another Inca site with beautiful views across the valley and our first view of Machu Picchu mountain - although the citadel itself was still hidden from site.
The next few hours involved descending down steps - much easier without the rain! - and a stop at the incredible site of Intipata, The Terraces of the Sun, from where we got the most breathtaking views overlooking the Urbamba river. Really, no one could quite believe how beautiful it was. Sat on the terrace of an ancient inca site, looking out over lush green mountains, with a perfect river snaking its way through the valley. We stayed here quite a while, revelling in this view!
It was a short walk to our camp where we arrived in time for lunch, and an afternoon to rest. I made the most of this time with a quick nap before a short early evening walk to an inca site close to our camp. Winay Wayna is the most spectacular Inca site on the trail after Machu Picchu, believed to be a wellness and hospital complex. It was truly incredible to walk around.
Day 4: Machu Picchu
Despite a very early wake up at 3am, we didn’t start hiking until 5.30am - those hours were spent waiting at the checkpoint for it to open so we could be amongst the first people to pass through.
Our final day greeted us with rain again as we began our hike up to the Sun Gate, Inti Punku, for our first spectacular view of the mountains and Machu Picchu in all its glory. This iconic view of the citadel emerging from the morning mist was so special, a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Don’t get me wrong, the clouds were doing their best to obscure our view! But the fast moving mist added to the magical atmosphere, revealing the ancient citadel little by little.
It was another hour downhill for us to finally to reach the lost city of the Incas. Approaching, the views of Machu Picchu just got better and better the closer we got. Not even the rain and the cold could ruin it for us!
After warming up with a cup of coffee, we then got a full 2 hour guided tour of the whole site. It was fascinating to learn more about not only the history and use of the site but the incredible engineering that went into building the city. There really aren’t enough superlatives to describe the experience! Despite freezing (shorts were a bad idea) we didn’t want to leave. It’s like we could feel the history and the magic of the place in the air around us.
Was it all that we thought it would be?
There’s a danger when you look forward to something too much, build it up in your mind, that it can never live up to those expectations. Neither Graeme nor I think this is the case with the Inca Trail.
The Inca Trail is not just a physical challenge; it's also a cultural and historical immersion. We gained insight into the ancient Inca civilisation, its intricate stone masonry, and, most importantly, the spiritual significance of the trail.
The four days aren’t easy, but the rewards are immense. We are so grateful we got this chance to connect with the past, embrace the beauty of the Andes, meet so many like-minded travellers and witness one of history’s most iconic archaeological sites - an actual wander of the world. We’ve experienced so many wonderful things, and we have much more to come, but those four days will always hold a special place in our hearts.
Related Content
