5 days around Medellin
The view from the top of El Piedra in Guatape
I’ve never seen Narcos - much to the shock of some - and during our time in Medellin we found local’s had differing views on the hit TV show that depicts some of their city’s darkest days.
“It’s the best education you can have on life in Colombia,” said one tour guide, as we walked around Comuna 13. “It is not the real story of Medellin,” said another. I can see why it would grate on the city’s inhabitants today. Medellín's reputation as one of the most dangerous places in the world is well-known, but to present a fictionalised version of a horror that is within living memory and personally affected most people that still live in the city today… it seems a bit crass, to me.
Our time in Medellin really is a tale of two halves. We enjoyed the most colourful day-trip to nearby Guatape and made the most of the vibrant food and drink culture in the city, eating some of the best food we have had to date. But we also learnt about they city’s turbulent past, which resulted in some personal reflection on the kind of travellers we want to be.
The longest bus journey to date
A flight from where we were, in Cartagena, to Medellin costs £80 per person, and takes 1 hour 15 minutes. The bus from Cartagena to Medellin costs £35 per person, and takes 15 hours and 40 minutes.
It’s hard being a budget traveller! In a past life we wouldn’t have thought twice about getting a plane - but we’ve always travelled short of time with money to spend. Gearing up for this journey was a stark realisation that is not the case any more - we are always looking to save money, even if it means spending more time.
After the night bus experience from San Gil to Santa Marta, we decided to tackle this long journey during the day. So, even though it was a longer journey, it was much more pleasant. We got to look out the window as the coastal views turned to mountain vistas, and could properly stretch our legs during designated stops. We arrived in Medellin about 10pm just in time for a much-needed full night of rest.
Some thoughts on Dark Tourism
I understand that Pablo Escobar is an intriguing figure, as so many in history are. Opinions on Escobar in Medellin are split. For every person who thinks he brought evil and darkness, there are others who see him as a Robin Hood figure. It is true that he invested in improving poorer neighbourhoods - it’s true that his legacy is a complex one. To only focus on Escobar is to simplify the history of Colombia: the drug cartels are only one factor in the country’s troubled past.
There’s no denying that the Netflix show has brought its own kind of tourism to Medellin - visitors who want to pose for pictures in the ruins of Escobar’s ‘prison,’ or take selfies at his grave. This kind of Dark Tourism has helped build a visitor economy in the city, but it also guarantees that the long shadow of the past remains ever-present.
All of this is to say we didn’t do a Pablo Escobar tour. As two history graduates, we have studied the importance of remembering history and not sweeping it away, but also the pain and trauma of collective memory. We wanted to learn in a way that was respectful and celebrated the progress the city is making, rather than glorifying sites associated with controversial figures.
Comuna 13 and Casa de la Memoria
We visited two sites to try and get a rounded perspective on the city’s recent history. Comuna 13 is an area set across a huge valley. Once one of the city's most dangerous neighbourhoods, it has undergone a remarkable transformation and is now a vibrant hub of street art and culture. Residents in the area adopted hip hop culture as a means to creatively express their experiences - the area is full of dance troupes, musicians and vibrant murals.
We took a guided tour through the neighbourhood's colourful alleys, adorned with stunning street art that depict the resilience and hope of its residents. We rode the commuter cable car - which has enabled residents in the area to access jobs and resources in the city - and witnessed the power of art and collective action in fostering positive change.
After this, we went to the Casa la Memoria - the Memory House Museum. This exhibition focuses on the stories of the victims, putting their voices and experiences of day-to-day life at front and centre of our learning about the city’s past. It’s quite easy to forget normal people when thinking about periods of history but, at the end of the day, these events are not just the plot of a TV show. The people who lived through these events are still walking the same streets where stalls are selling Escobar magnets and T-shirts.
By far the most moving exhibit are life-size screens that play videos of victims as they tell their stories directly to camera (with English subtitles). The wife of an assassinated politician, the mother of a murdered son, displaced families - there is nothing like the stories of ordinary people to truly help you understand the horror of the times they lived through.
Less food for thought and more… food!
So it’s safe to say we had some quite deep and reflective experiences in Medellin! But we also experienced the fun, bustling modern-day city.
One aspect that took us by surprise was the food scene. Up until this point, we had done what we usually do when we visit new places and tried as much local cuisine as possible - and discovered some great new flavours! But Medellin was the first place we found we were spoiled for choice when it came to international cuisine… and after 3 weeks on the road we needed a bit of variety!
From oven baked and oozy lasagne to bbq burgers, we ate well during our time in the city. The area we stayed in was amazing for foodie finds. Like most visitors to the city, we were in the El Poblado district, but we were slightly further out from the bars with their ‘Gringo Tuesday’ offers around Calle 10. We stayed a little further north, in a sub-neighbourhood called Manila. Here, our favourites included Restaurante Auténtico serving, you guessed it, authentic Colombian food - but unlike any we had tasted so far. This cosy space only had 5 tables and a small menu but we both enjoyed deliciously flavoured stews with rice.
A few days later, I finally gave in to the taco craving I’d had all week. I had tried to put it off, thinking we were going to Mexico soon… then I realised that is at least 8 months away and I couldn’t wait that long! My god am I glad I made that decision. We went to Las Delicias De La Flaca and ate almost everything on the menu - special shout out to the Nachos Gratinados. The bowl of pulled beef chilli topped with guacamole, tomatoes and melted cheese and served with homemade nachos was a highlight.
A day trip to Guatape
A short distance from Medellín lies the enchanting town of Guatapé, famous for its colourful buildings, charming cobblestone streets, and stunning views of the surrounding landscape. After 4 days in the city, Guatapé was a refreshing escape from the urban hustle.
En route, we jumped off the bus about 20 minutes out of town at Piedra del Peñol, a monolithic rock formation that offers a panoramic view of the surrounding lakes and hills. We climbed to the top via 708 stone steps that somehow cling to the side of the rock.
The lakes around Guatapé were formed thanks to the Peñol-Guatape Dam, which required the flooding of a huge area that covered valleys, forests and even a small town. The result is a series of interconnected lakes which make for an incredible view!
Back at ground level, we flagged the same bus down to travel the rest of the way into the colourful town of Guatape. The town’s cobblestone streets are lined with vibrant and intricately decorated houses, known as “zócalos.” The designs on the houses tell a story - sometimes about the town’s history, sometimes about the people who live within. Every house has a different design, which adds to the undeniable charm of the place.
We enjoyed a few hours walking around the town and a simple lunch. It is a popular day trip destination, so understandably busy. I imagine it would be a nice place to visit and stay overnight to make the most of the cute streets when less crowded.
Overall, we loved our time in Medellin. There is no denying the city has a fascinating history, one which we tried to learn about as sensitively and respectfully as we could. But it’s not all about the past. It’s fair to say that Medellín has transcended its tumultuous past to become a buzzing modern city, and a must-visit in its own right.
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