Itinerary: 8 Days in Istria — The End of Everywhere

Welcome to the beaches and history of Croatia, the gastronomy of Italy, and the natural wonders of Slovenia, all in one. Istria, a heart-shaped peninsula in Northern Croatia, has it all.

Planning a honeymoon in the aftermath of a worldwide shutdown was hard, to say the least. We knew we wanted to go further afield eventually (a discussion that led us to take a Career Break to travel Latin America!) but, whilst there was uncertainty around travel, we thought it better to stay closer to home and opt for a mini-moon.

In the end, there was nothing ‘mini’ about our incredible eight days in Istria. Croatia’s good weather appealed to us, but we wanted to be somewhere away from crowds, with a chance to explore nature and indulge in great food during our first week as husband and wife. Istria was just the ticket we needed.

Why visit Istria?

Nestled on the Adriatic coast and close to the borders of both Italy and Slovenia, the enchanting region of Istria in Croatia is often overlooked in favour of famous destinations further south. But its mixture of ancient history, untouched nature, and exquisite gastronomy make it a versatile destination.

Istria’s historical sites range from prehistoric dinosaur footprints to Roman ruins and picturesque medieval hilltop towns. We wandered through olive groves and vineyards that blanket rolling hills, and swam in the azure waters of the Adriatic as it lapped against pebble beaches and dramatic cliffs. This is truffle country and wine country, so foodies like us will not be disappointed. Indulge in delectable truffle-infused cuisine and sip on renowned local wines that have been produced for centuries.

Graeme standing on stone walkway over ocean at sunset

Whether you seek adventure, relaxation, gastronomic delights, or a cultural break - or, like us, a mixture of all of the above - Istria’s charm is impossible to resist.

Transport in Istria

Istria is a compact region and there are buses that connect the major towns and cities. Hiring a car will give you a lot more flexibility to visit the smaller towns and villages, however, we opted for private transfers for our entire journey - it was our honeymoon, after all. We were pleasantly surprised by how affordable this was. Every journey I list here was done by taxi and came to under £200 for the week. The company we chose - City Taxi Pula - emailed the cost of all the journeys up front and even provided a WhatsApp number so we could keep in touch with the driver, David. We paid for each journey once completed and David was on time and friendly every time we saw him.

8 Day Istria Itinerary

Day 1: UK - Pula - Pomer

Our honeymoon got off to a less-than-ideal start, with every train to Gatwick Airport being cancelled when we arrived at the station. We quickly formulated a new route that got us into the airport only 30 minutes later than planned - thankfully I am one of those annoying people who plan to get to the airport unreasonably early!

A 2.5-hour flight took us to Pula airport, where we had arranged a private transfer to the village of Pomer, a small coastal town just outside the city. Our first stop was a safari tent at a luxury glamping site.

Arena One 99 Glamping, Pomer

Nestled in the picturesque seaside village of Pomer, Croatia, Arena One 99 Glamping* is a unique and luxurious camping experience. Surrounded by pristine nature and just steps away from the crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic Sea, the site combines the tranquillity of outdoor living with modern comforts and, dare I say, a touch of luxury.

The Safari Tent we stayed in was big enough for four, with double beds downstairs and on a mezzanine level. Spacious and stylishly furnished, it was a cosy retreat at the end of each day, complete with comfortable beds, a fully functioning kitchen and bathroom, and air conditioning.

The complex is within walking distance to a pebble beach, and is home to a charming restaurant and bar. The friendly staff are so welcoming, and the bar serves delicious Mediterranean cuisine and refreshing drinks overlooking the water. There is also a small grocery store so you can make the most of the self-catering facilities.

There are a range of outdoor activities available along the shoreline including bikes to hire, paddle boarding and a water sports centre, but walk up the hill to the top of the site and you’ll find a spa, with massage and treatments available as well as a number of hot tubs that can be booked free of charge. The whole place was just what we wanted for our honeymoon - to feel immersed in nature without having to get too hands-on.

On our first evening, we explored the glamping site, picked up some groceries for the following day, and then took a short walk to the water. We found a long, stone walkway/jetty that connected Pomer to a neighbouring peninsula. Walking out to the middle, we were treated to a 360-degree view of the sunset whilst surrounded by water on all sides.

Day 2: A half-day trip to Pula

After breakfast, we met our taxi with a plan to spend half a day in Pula. I was really looking forward to discovering the history of the place and particularly seeing Pula Arena - one of the best preserved Roman Amphitheatre remaining today.

We started with the Arena, which dates back to the 1st century AD and was first built under the reign of Augustus - although it was enlarged and improved under many later emperors. You can get right up close and personal to the arena without the crowds of Rome’s Colosseum. Standing directly under the huge arches really brings home how magnificent this structure is. It’s not hard to imagine over 20,000 spectators screaming as they watched gladiatorial contests.

We wandered through Pula's winding streets and along the waterfront promenade, soaking in the sun and admiring the yachts that dot the marina, before heading towards another Roman site: the Temple of Augustus. This beautifully preserved Roman temple is dedicated to the first Roman emperor. Inside, a small exhibition charts the history of Pula, giving a fascinating timeline and insight into the city’s ancient heritage.

Our next planned stop was the city’s fortress, but halfway up to its hilltop location we were tempted into Jupiter - a pizzeria with a gorgeous outdoor terrace. It was the noise of the terrace that caught our attention, and following the sound of chatter up the steps we were won over by what we saw - tables balanced over many different levels, lush trees, climbing vines and brightly coloured flowers hanging all around, red table cloths and wooden chairs, beckoning us to sit down. We devoured the thin-crust pizzas in no time, along with our first pints of Ozujsko lager of the week. Safe to say they were not the last!

After lunch, we braved the rest of the uphill climb to Pula Kastel. The historic fortress is perched atop a hill, a commanding presence in the city. From the top it offers breathtaking panoramic views of Pula and the Adriatic Sea.

Pula is a small but fascinating place to visit, with ancient wonders, cute streets and a Mediterranean ambience. We found a half-day trip to be enough, although a slower pace and an extra museum would make this a day trip.

Returning back to Pomer in the late afternoon, we soaked our tired legs in one of the hot tubs before making dinner in our Safari Tent, followed by drinks at the bar as the sun set.

Day 3: Brijuni National Park

Day three started with another taxi ride, this time to the port town of Fazana. We had pre-booked tickets on the first boat of the day to the paradise islands of Brijuni National Park. This archipelago of 14 islands was one of the things we were looking forward to most - yes, we wanted to explore the untouched beauty and rich biodiversity the park offers, but we also wanted to make the most of a popular mode of transport. On this car-free island, visitors can hire golf buggies to explore the trails!

Upon arrival, we got our buggy and took to the road. There are many different routes you can follow through fragrant pine forests, past beautiful pebble beaches and Roman ruins. We got off the buggy to follow a short trail that led to dinosaur footprints in the rocks. Over 200 dinosaur footprints have been discovered on the island, dating back up to 130 million years.

Brijuni National Park holds fascinating historical significance as the former summer residence of Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito. From the 1940s to the 1980s, Tito used these enchanting islands as a private retreat and hosted numerous world leaders and celebrities. We drove our little buggy by Tito's former residence, with his car parked outside - it is a very intriguing history for a national park! Another remnant of Tito’s life on the island is the Safari Park. He collected animals from all over the world to impress his high-ranking guests. Along with domestic animals, there are zebras and two beautiful elephants.

After a few hours of exploration, both in the buggy and on foot, we got the boat back to Fazana where we enjoyed a beautiful seafood lunch at the harbour.

Delicious dinner

Back at our glamping site, we relaxed on the beach for a few hours before walking to a nearby restaurant and enjoyed some of the best Tuna we have ever had!

Day 4: Explore Cape Kamenjak

Day four saw us revisiting the stone walkway we discovered on our first night. After hiring bikes, we nervously rode over the narrow path and found the off-road trail that winds through the raw beauty of Cape Kamenjak - a stunning nature reserve. The trail from the town of Premantura to the coast is a mixture of forested and open paths along the rugged coastline, with hidden coves and awe-inspiring cliffs that are best discovered on two wheels.

Along the way we found secluded beaches to take a refreshing dip, but we found most peace by simply pedalling deeper into the reserve and basking in the tranquillity of nature. Except when I saw a snake… that wasn’t so tranquil!

We rode all the way to the end of the peninsula and stopped for lunch - and beers - in Safari Bar. The views were out of this world. Deep blue sea all around. We spent a few hours reading our books and dipping into the ocean from a rocky beach, then mounted our bikes for the ride back to Pomer.

Our last night at Arena One 99 Glamping was spent at the Beach Bar, devouring a platter of Istrian meats and cheeses and sipping Aperol Spritz. Divine. With that, the active half of our honeymoon was over and we were ready for a few days of relaxation.

Day 5: Transfer to Rovinj

Rovinj is approximately a 40-minute drive from Pomer and was our base for the second half of the week. We were dropped at the port and got straight onto another boat, because we had booked a hotel on a private island just off the coast. So fancy!

Island Hotel Katarina, Rovinj

We’re not normally the type of people to go lavish on hotels, but we made an exception for our honeymoon.

Island Hotel Katarina* is nestled on its own private island and surrounded by the sparkling waters of the Adriatic. Our room had a balcony with the most incredible view over to Rovinj Old Town. The hotel definitely has a luxury feel with huge grounds, multiple pools, a large restaurant and smaller beach bars, a choice of terraces and - most importantly - the whole island was full of hidden, beautiful beaches that you can enjoy all to yourself (or, at least, we did - but we visited in May before the high season kicked off.) It truly was an idyllic getaway. There is also a free boat for hotel guests that connects the hotel to the mainland from 5.30 am to 00.30 am - so you can make the most of the town proper.

After checking in and enjoying our complimentary bubbles on the balcony, we got dressed up and hopped on the boat back to the mainland. I say in my bio that I’m the planner and that’s very true in this case - six weeks before our trip, I booked us a table at Michelin-starred restaurant, La Puntalina.

Located on the picturesque waterfront, this restaurant serves simple but fresh and flavourful food, with an emphasis on seafood and Mediterranean dishes. Its terrace hugs the shoreline with tables so close to the sea you can feel its spray. As the sun sets the whole world turns golden and small table lamps create an intimate ambience. Add the attentive service, gorgeous wine list and stunning views, dining at La Puntalina is a truly memorable gastronomic experience.

La Puntalina

Did I need to book so far in advance? Yes! Our waitress said they book up over two months in advance in summer, so if you want this experience it pays to be organised.

Day 6: Rovinj

The next morning we were back on the boat across to Rovinj Old Town where we spent a few hours leisurely strolling the winding cobbled streets. It is like stepping into a world of old-world charm with a Mediterranean atmosphere. The narrow alleys are lined with stone buildings that are adorned with flower-filled balconies - it’s the kind of place to just wander around and see what you find. We discovered a small square tucked away where we enjoyed a gelato, stalls where artists and craftspeople sold their work and so many cute cafes.

There were a few options we discussed for the afternoon. We could have hired bikes again and made for the beaches and woodland of nearby Punta Corrente Forest Park, jumped on another boat to explore more of the archipelago around Rovinj, or even walked a short distance to one of the nearby wineries to sample local grapes. In the end, we decided to head back to the Island Hotel and find a secluded beach. We settled on the pebbles in a tiny cove, only big enough for the two of us but looking out over the Old Town of Rovinj, and spent the rest of the day relaxing and soaking up the sun.

Day 7: Flavours of Istria Tour

On our final day, we took an organised tour inland to discover more of the beauty of Istria. Our ‘Flavours of Istria’ tour* centred on the famous gastronomy of the region whilst visiting beautiful hilltop villages.

We shared our day with an American couple who were also on their honeymoon - it was lovely to be travelling with other people enjoying the same bubble of bliss as we were!

Our first stop was Hum, supposedly the smallest town in the world with only 20 inhabitants. It was indeed like something out of a Disney movie, with a tiny network of cobbled streets and stone houses. According to local legend, Hum was built with the stones left over when giants were building towns in the nearby Mirna River valley. Apart from being famous for being the smallest town in the world, Hum recently became popular for biska, a spiced brandy made with mistletoe. Of course, we got a taste! We visited a shop with so many different flavours and we got to try 4 or 5 different types before deciding it was enough for before midday!

Next, we visited what we were told was the most attractive and famous medieval town in the country - Motovun. It was certainly oozing medieval character and boasting panoramic views. We wandered through ancient walls, cobblestone streets, and stone houses. The main event was a taste of the truffle-infused cuisine. We stopped in a small deli that was filled floor to ceiling with truffle products. From pastes to oils and preserved truffles, black truffles and white truffles, we got to taste it all. It was delicious. Of course, we left with some truffle-infused oil and seasoning - just small enough to go in our hand luggage liquid allowance! On the drive down from Motovun, we stopped by the roadside to soak in the breathtaking view of the town, perched high up on the hillside behind rows of surrounding vineyards.

After a stop for lunch in a local restaurant chosen by our guides, we made our way to our final destination of the day: Groznjan. Another medieval hilltop village, Groznjan exudes artistic flair, with numerous galleries and studios showcasing local craftsmanship. We strolled through narrow streets to a lookout point where we stopped to soak in the enchanting views. It was a peaceful end to a beautiful - and filling! - day trip.

Back at our island hotel, we spent our last evening on the terrace bar, watching the sun set over the Adriatic.

Day 8: Rovinj - Pula - UK

Our last day was mainly travel admin, except for one brilliant discovery. Whilst waiting for our transfer to the airport we ordered a cocktail we hadn’t tried before: a Hugo. What a revelation!

We may have had a few too many and the journey home was a little trickier once we found out the plane was delayed - hangover in the airport is not the one! But whenever I order this elderflower and gin spritz I am transported back to our enchanting honeymoon in Istria.