Visiting Perito Moreno Glacier & Mini-Trek on the Ice
Our first look at the Perito Moreno Glacier.
After a very long journey (London to Madrid to Buenos Aires to El Calafate), we jumped straight into our first full day in Patagonia with a trip to visit Perito Moreno Glacier. A small voice in my head cautioned that it might have been better to rest, recover from the travel… but I was impatient to begin.
Every bit of advice you read for travelling to Patagonia will tell you the same thing: prepare for all weathers, it’s not unusual to experience all four seasons in a day. Driving from El Calafate to Los Glaciares National Park with tour company Hielo y Aventura, I thought I had been lucky. The sun was shining bright, the sky was blue and streaked with clouds. As the bus pulled into the car park we got our first look at the glacier in the distance, glistening as the morning sun warmed it’s face.
Get to know Perito Moreno Glacier from the Boardwalks…
The first few hours of our Perito Moreno Glacier tour were spent walking up and down wooden catwalks that spanned the face of the glacier, giving incredible views of ice as it calved off the wall of ice into the water below. The spectacle was thrilling, even the fourth, fifth, sixth time it happened before our eyes. The silent minutes in between had us transfixed, anticipating the next shot reverberate through the air, signalling another collapse.
Throughout the visit, our guide explained the fascinating science behind the formation of glaciers and the cycle that triggers the ice calving, so we could get a better understanding of what we were seeing.
…then get even closer on a boat tour
The morning sun turned to afternoon shadows as we boarded a boat for an even closer look. As we advanced, the ice seemed to tower above us. Soon the 60m wall was so close it cast a chill across our shoulders.
Alighting onto the rocks on the opposite shore, we stopped for lunch to refuel us for the task ahead: to get as intimate as non-mountaineering folks like us can get with the ice.
After a picnic lunch and a short walk ever closer to the looming glacier, we were sent to a supply hut to be kitted up. Donning crampons and helmets and tightly grasping ice-picks, we walked forwards, the ground beneath our feet slowing giving way to the frozen bridge we had been photographing all morning.
Experience a Mini-Trek on Perito Moreno Glacier
This was our second glacier walk, after a trip to Iceland the year previously, and it was a completely different experience. As the afternoon became gloomier and conditions were overcast, the ice seemed to shine brighter. Glaring white and blue, but loose underfoot, almost like snow. As we moved further from the edge and became immersed in the icy landscape, I felt like I was on a polar expedition.
The very concept of glaciers fill me with curiosity and awe - it is a special feeling to be walking on ice so dense and solid but know that once it fell as tiny delicate snowflakes, thousands of years ago. Perito Moreno is a marvel even amongst glaciers, our guide told us, as it continues to advance as other glaciers in the world retreat.
We were led deeper into the ice field, and taught about the geological features of the glacier as we walked. We saw pools of meltwater, deep caves and crevices through the ice, bubbles forming under the surface, areas that looked smooth like an ice rink and others that were jagged hills we had to scrambled over.
The route began to descend as we made our way back towards solid ground, but not before one final surprise. We were handed glasses of whiskey on the rocks - using ice from the glacier! It was a great way to toast the end of a special day, and a much needed pick-me-up to gear us up for the hike back to the car park and El Calafate.
How to Plan a Visit and Mini-Trek on Perito Moreno Glacier
Our trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier was operated by Hielo y Aventura. It was a medium-sized group but well organised so we could always see and hear the guide, and the bus was comfortable. The glacier is one of the main attractions from El Calafate and there are a number of tour providers on the main street offering similar experiences.
It is possible to visit independently. The easiest way would be to drive, or by public transport you’d need to go from El Calafate to the town of Perito Moreno, then shuttle to Los Glaciares National Park (many companies run this route). As an independent traveller you need to pay a park entrance fee then book any activities (mini-trek, boat ride, kayaking) separately, and either bring lunch or pay the inflated prices at the restaurant. All things considered, we opted for a tour as it cost about the same and saved a lot of time!
Is Mini-Trekking worth it? Absolutely. It’s really hard to describe the feeling of walking on a glacier, it’s like a different world!
Book Mini-Trekking with Hielo y Aventura on TripAdvisor.*
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