Camping in the Sahara Desert
Stepping down onto the golden sands of the Sahara desert, a wave of heat washed over me as my sandalled foot sank into the soft ground - it was like I was being embraced by its fiery touch.
The sun beat down relentlessly, painting the landscape in hues of amber and ochre. But amidst the intensity of it all, there was a sense of adventure and mystique that beckoned me further.
There is no doubt that camping in the Sahara Desert is an unforgettable experience - who could turn down the chance to explore one of the most iconic landscapes on the planet? When planning a trip to Southern Morocco, visiting this other-worldly landscape was top of my wishlist. Whilst it is a long trip to get there, its vast expanses of sand dunes, rocky plateaus, and stunning sunsets, make the Sahara well worth the journey from Marrakech.
Exploring the Sandscape
The Sahara is the largest hot desert in the world, covering an area of over 3.6 million square miles across North Africa. The towering sand dunes are perhaps the most iconic feature of the Sahara, with some reaching heights of over 600 feet. The dunes are constantly shifting due to the wind, creating a mesmerising and ever-changing landscape. It’s something I find incredible to this day - that if I were to visit again and go back to the exact same spot, it could look completely different.
Nomadic Traditions & Desert Wanderers
For centuries humans have traversed the vast expanse of the Sahara, embracing a way of life shaped by their close connection to the sand. When you are surrounded by what - to my modern, city-living eyes - looks like nothing, for miles in every direction, you wonder how you would survive. And the truth is that I wouldn’t. Yet the Berber people of the Sahara are able to thrive. Travelling and trading along the caravan route, their intimate knowledge of water sources and seasons is taught from a young age until it is second nature.
The Sahara's allure extends beyond its geographical boundaries, making appearances in popular culture across the world. From The Alchemist to Lawrence of Arabia and even Sting’s Desert Rose, the captivating beauty of the desert has inspired tales of epic adventure, enduring love and self-discovery. It’s reached an almost mythical status, so no wonder it is a bucket-list destination for so many.
A Modern Day Caravan: Our Journey to Merzouga
Our journey started in Marrakech on a three-night Saharan odyssey*, driving through the Atlas Mountains and stopping overnight close to the Todra Gorge before an early start towards Merzouga. This small town is close to Erg Chebbi, or ‘Sea of Dunes,’ famous for being home to huge sand dunes. It is a long journey which was broken up with stops on the way there, but was a full day of driving on the return - so be prepared for time on the road.
First up, I will address a question which I looked into for a long time: Is Merzouga and Erg Chebbi part of the Sahara Desert?
I looked at so many maps! All tours and Moroccan tourism sources say yes it is part of the desert. I can confidently say that it’s part of the gateway to the desert. Historically, caravans would leave and head south from the ancient city of Sijilmasa for the trans-Saharan trade route. That’s good enough for me. If you’re looking for a desert camping experience, to get immersed in the Berber culture, see towering dunes and make unforgettable memories, Merzouga and Erg Chebbi is the one.
On arrival, we traded four wheels for 4 legs and were shown our next mode of transport - camel. I’d never ridden a camel before, so as I climbed atop the gentle giant - who I named Carmelita - a mix of excitement and anxiety coursed through me. Our guide showed us how to tie our scarves around our heads to stop sand blowing into our faces and, with a sudden lurch, we were off.
With every swaying step, I was reminded of how travel sick I get… which was only intensified by the heat. I concentrated on the horizon ahead of me, unmoving and empty, and I found myself surrendering to the rhythmic motion. For over an hour, we plodded into the emptiness, the elevated vantage point offering a new perspective of the world as the desert unfolded before my eyes. It is an enchanting feeling, knowing you are following in the footsteps of people from hundreds of years before you, on the same mode of transport that allows complete immersion into the timeless beauty of the Sahara.
Desert Hospitality: Experiencing Berber Culture
The camp was nestled between the dunes, a handful of traditional tents in a large circle. The tents themselves were simple - they looked like they were made of similar material to the Moroccan rugs we had seen being made in the High Atlas Mountains. Inside the smaller tents where we dropped our bags, there were camp beds set up for our party and not much else. You can get luxury experiences with plumbing and toilets, but these are generally closer to the town.
We were told by our guide the sun would be setting soon and the best view was up a huge dune just beyond the camp. We all raced away so we could get to the top in time. Little did we know that climbing a sand dune is not as straightforward as you think. For every step up the steep slope, my foot would slide half a step back down. It took strong calves - and a strong will! - to get the top, by my god, it was worth it.
The desert sky painted a masterpiece for us that evening, as the dunes came alive with vibrant yellow, pink and bright red. We sat there mesmerised.
It was dusk by the time we returned and were beckoned straight into a larger tent where we were met by a wave of heat - and that’s saying something for someone that had spent the day in the 40-degree desert sun! In this tent, the heat of the day mixed with the heat of simmering food. The smell of delicate spices filled the air and I suddenly realised how hungry I was. A mouth-watering tagine had been slow cooking all day and was served in the traditional way - in the centre of the table for all guests to share.
The food was delicious, but my overriding memory of that meal is how hot we were! I’ve never felt anything like it. There was sweat dripping off my brow and into my plate… not ideal!
The rest tent was scattered with rugs and cushions where we sipped traditional mint tea after dinner. Like me, the rest of the group was still overheating from dinner, so we finished the tea pretty quickly to escape outside, which was a significantly more pleasant temperature since the sun’s departure.
We settled around a small campfire while our hosts played traditional music and told us about life in the desert. As twilight descended the sky above transformed, revealing a tapestry of countless stars. Our group mainly watched in awe, captivated by the sheer magnitude of the universe above.
An hour after climbing into my camp bed I was tossing and turning, unable to sleep - the tents really did retain the heat. Following the lead of a few others in our group, I dragged my bed out of the tent to the embers of the dying fire.
And then, the silence. We lay there under the stars, drinking in the profound stillness that had enveloped the desert as if time itself had come to a standstill. No sounds of civilisation, no lights except the stars, no distractions. Just the gentle whisper of the wind caressing the dunes. In that serene state, I felt a deep tranquillity as I drifted off to sleep.
We were awoken before dawn by our hosts. Half asleep, I gathered my belongings and was ushered back to the camels, my body adjusting to the motion much quicker than the previous day. The desert had one parting gift in store for us. As the first rays of sunlight broke the dunes, the whole world around us was illuminated with golden light, the shadows of our caravan our only company as we made our slow way back to reality.
Travel Tips and Recommendations: Embarking on a Sahara Adventure
Camping in the Sahara is a unique and unforgettable experience, offering visitors a chance to disconnect from the world. We booked a 3-day tour from Marrakech to Merzouga.* Whilst it is an adventurous thing to do, there are a few things that will help you prepare and be comfortable on your trip.
Clothing
Wear loose, lightweight and breathable clothing to combat the desert heat.
Take a scarf - one of your hosts will show you how to protect your face from the sand
A wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses will help protect you from the sun
Remember it gets cooler at night - depending on what time of year you go, temperatures can get very low once the sun disappears.
Stay Hydrated
The climate can cause rapid dehydration - as I said, I’ve never experienced sweating so much in my life! We were advised to take 3 litres of water each for our overnight stay, which we bought from a small town shop on our drive towards Merzouga.
Pack the essentials
You’ll most likely leave your big bag in Merzouga and take a smaller pack into the desert overnight. The essentials you’ll need include suncream, insect repellent, a first aid kit, a head torch, and toilet paper. Add your water bottles, clothing, camera, phone and portable charger, you probably won’t want to add much more.
Local Guides
Without a doubt, our experience was made amazing by our hosts. Seeing first-hand what desert life looks like, and being able to share their campsite, eat with them and listen to their stories and music made our trip unforgettable. Of course, there is the safety aspect, too. It is a hostile and potentially very dangerous environment, so it is essential to be with knowledgeable locals that know the terrain.
*Affiliate link - if you click this link and book we will earn a small commission. There won’t be any extra cost for you!
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