A Flying Visit to Belize
The paradise island of Caye Caulker
In the serene waters off the coast of Belize lies a true gem of the Caribbean: Caye Caulker. The island motto demands that visitors “Go Slow” - this is a place to unwind and soak in the natural splendour of the world.
We didn’t plan to spend much time in Belize because… well, we don’t actually have much time left! We have big plans for Mexico and want to take our time exploring there, but as our route would take us through Belize we thought it only polite to stop a while and get a taste for this little slice of paradise.
We settled on a 5 day stay in Caye Caulker. The word "Caye" caused some confusion (for me, anyway) but I learnt it is a term used throughout the Caribbean to refer to a small island made of sand or coral rubble, usually popular with tourists due to the closeness of marine life.
In English it is pronounced as "key," but confusingly it is derived from the Spanish word "cayo.” Even more confusingly, entering Belize meant a temporary pause in Spanish and back to speaking English. It was harder to switch back than I thought it would be! Saying gracias has become an auto response, so I expect to confuse a few cashiers at Tesco Express in Leicester over the coming months.
Caye Caulker, once a sleepy fishing village, has evolved into quite a thriving tourist destination. Originally inhabited by the Maya, the island later became a haven for pirates seeking refuge in its secluded coves and mangrove swamps. In the 20th century it transformed into a fishing community, and today, hotels, restaurants and beach bars dominate.
We arrived in Belize city after a painless border crossing bus journey from Flores, Guatemala, and had a bit of a wait - which we used to eat delicious meat pies - before we were on the boat to the Caye.
It is a small place, easy to walk end to end through sandy streets, lined with colorful wooden buildings and swaying palm trees. There are no cars on the island, but you still need to look both ways for an abundance of golf carts ferrying people and goods around, as well as people zipping around on bikes. So much for “go slow…”
On arrival, we took ourselves down to the waterfront for dinner whilst the sun set. What an introduction to island life! We were slightly disappointed to learn that we had missed lobster season by two weeks - I had been looking forward to treating myself! But no real qualms from me - limiting lobster fishing is so that the population remains sustainable and to prevent overfishing.
As we waited for our jerk chicken (a worthy second choice) to arrive, a tray of tropical-looking drinks arrived at our table. We were slightly confused as the waiter put them down, as was the waiter when we said they weren’t ours. We scoured the restaurant and found their rightful owners with a few laughs. “I’m surprised you didn’t keep them,” one of them said. “I was tempted, but I would never come between a woman and her pina colada, I’m not a monster!”
We didn’t think much of it… until we had eaten and went to get our bill, and our waiter told us it had already been paid. What? “By the Americans at the next table, they paid for you.” He was beaming, presumably at the utter shock on our faces. We couldn’t believe it!
It doesn’t sound like much but when it happens to you it’s overwhelming that a stranger would be so kind. Of course, I had some more selfish thoughts, like “do we look so bedraggled from the last ten months on the road they took pity on us,” and, “now I’m even more gutted I couldn’t order a lobster!” But my main emotion was overwhelming gratitude.
We were gutted we couldn’t find them and say thankyou. But in lieu of that we decided, as soon as we are able, we will do the same for someone else. So, if you’re in a restaurant in Leicester this summer and see us, it’s worth ordering a little extra - you might get lucky!
That first night high lasted throughout our time on the island. We spent our days lazing at The Split - an iconic spot where a narrow waterway divides the island in two, surrounded by colourful deckchairs and the perfect spot for swimming, sunbathing, and drinking a few beers from the nearby Lazy Lizard beach bar. I cannot describe how clear the water is. The brightest blue and warm. The island doesn’t have any traditionally sandy beaches, but we didn’t miss them when we had our deck chairs and such welcoming waters awaiting us.
Our other main hangout was Iguana Reef Inn - technically a private beach, but a beer from the bar meant we could sit in the deckchairs for a few hours, occasionally cooling off on the swings and hammocks hanging out in the ocean.
An added bonus of Iguana Reef was that stingrays flocked here every day in the late afternoon. They came right up to the shore! It was amazing to see them so close in the clear waters, although it would have been nicer if the staff had enforced a few more rules around the animals. A few excitable visitors, particularly kids, needed to be taught about not touching and generally respecting animals in their habitat.
We filled our stomachs with Caribbean delights, finding the best meals from the line of barbecues at the side of the road, and we even got another taste of pupusas in town! Each night, we would head to the edge of the island with a couple of beers and watch the sky turn into a canvas of colour as the sun set.
The only negative I have to say about the island is how privatised it is. It’s impossible to relax on the shoreline without being on a private beach owned by a hotel or bar. Sure, they look the other way if you’re not on a sun lounger, or you can buy your half day access with a single beer, but it is a shame that there’s no where reserved for public use, where you could take a little picnic and not worry about being told to move on unless you parted with some cash.
I’m also a little confused as to why seafood was so expensive on the island - it comes right off the boats there! In our experience, seafood is usually cheapest in coastal towns, but it seemed to be the exact opposite on the island. It was a bit of a shame as we could only make the most of it once, but the jerk fish we ate was worth the price tag - we could have licked the plates clean!
Caye Caulker may be small in size, but it packs a big punch when it comes to natural beauty, marine wildlife, and chilled vibes. Those five days left us feeling refreshed and energised for our 16th - and final - border crossing.
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